We woke up early to get our rental car and make the most out of a day in Manuel Antonio, so took advantage of the continental breakfast beforehand. The food was pretty solid actually, with a nice range of typical breakfast dishes to more local dishes with rice and beans. There were two immensely seminal discoveries made during this breakfast:
1. The pineapple in Costa Rica is unbelievably fresh
2. Most importantly, Tabasco Banquette is next level hot sauce, and would lead us to go out of our way throughout the trip in search of it
After breakfast, we took the shuttle service from the hotel back to the airport, where we would able to catch another shuttle service that would take us to the Enterprise headquarters in San José. As would be a reoccurring theme throughout the trip, the driver of the Enterprise shuttle was super friendly- I was able to have a limited conversation with him in Spanish, and he asked us where we were from, where we planned on going throughout our stay, made some recommendations for each of the destinations, etc. According to HappyPlanetIndex.org, Costa Rica has the happiest people of any country in the world. What a ridiculous website. How do you measure and qualify happiness? Absolute horseshit. I mean, they do have a pretty in depth methodology to back their data, but still, absolute horseshit. Neverthless, I love that driver. Shout out to the enterprise shuttle driver that does the morning shift.
I had read about and heard about all of the horror stories around renting a car in Costa Rica- the crappiness and narrowness of the roads, how roads are often closed due to flooding or mudslides, etc. But I didn’t care. I felt that if I could drive in Indonesia on the opposite side of the road I was accustomed to driving on, with vespas driving directly at you until they swerve at the last second to avoid a head on collision (not to mention livestock and chickens and people crossing the street without a care in the world), then I could drive in Costa Rica. When the Enterprise agent asked if I wanted to upgrade to a SUV, I didn’t hesitate to say yes. I mean in my mind, an SUV would be a better choice because it assure that we would be able to scale a sharp incline and fit our luggage comfortably. Plus fuck it, why not ball out while on vacation and ride in style while everyone else drives little shitty Toyota Yaris. Well, this choice proved not to be the wisest. Once we hit our first off highway road we realized that the width of the road is not made for an SUV. I basically had one inch to the right of me before I would be in a ravine, and one inch to the left of me or else I would get clipped by oncoming traffic. Cool. Just 9 more days of driving.
The drive to Manuel Antonio was approximately 2 ½ hours. Getting out of San José was initially stressful- it required driving on the aforementioned narrow local roads with random pedestrians walking without looking (reminiscent of Indonesia). But once we got to the highway, it got better. The crazy thing is that Manuel Antonio is roughly 40 miles away from San José, yet the roads (other than the highway) are so windy, narrow and bumpy that cars can’t really exceed 40 kilometers per hour. When we ascended up the hill to get in Manuel Antonio, we were a bit confused as to how to get to the beach- intuitively, going uphill does not lead to a beach. However, we continued along the main road until we hit a dramatic decline, of pure jungle, and a random guy started gesturing at us and luckily directed us to park directly onto the beach.
The beach was beautiful, and because it’s within the national park, we could tell it was a bit more commercially built up. It wasn’t overly crowded by any means- but there were people roaming around trying to sell knickknacks, not afraid to directly approach you and shake some weird lizard maraca in your face. It’s amazing- how the hell do they walk back and forth on the beach all day carrying a heavy backpack in a long sleeve shirt and pants? Obviously they don’t want to get sunburnt- but it’s hot as hades out there. I don’t envy them for a second. We hung out by the beach for a few hours- I usually get pretty stir crazy on the beach after 60 minutes, but after the initial travel day and long drive, it was just nice to be doing something. And to feel that the trip had officially begun.
We had heard that sunset was a must-see in Manuel Antonio, so we didn’t stay at the beach too long- after all, we still needed to check into our AirBnB. Our AirBnB was up the hill and off of the main road away from all of the hotels and bars- our SUV barely fit through the main gate. Although the space itself was blazing hot (no AC), it was pretty nice. We were basically smack in the jungle. The sheer sounds coming from the trees were amazing- birds, monkeys, and the familiar sound of roosters screaming their heads off . We even spotted a toucan on our first day...although we were really gunning for a sloth (we just expected that there would be sloths everywhere and out in the open). We picked up some booze in the airport and had a few drinks, and then headed off to the main strip to find a restaurant to view the sunset.
I had done a smidge of restaurant research in Manuel Antonio, and our AirBnB hosts had a comprehensive leaflet on everything to do in Manuel Antonio, so we decided on Barba Roja (appropriate name for me given it means “red beard”)- a bar with a variety of food options, and most importantly, facing the sun. The food was solid, but was barely of interest compared to the stunning sunset; such vibrant colors, the ideal mix of amber/orange/pink that makes one appreciate the beauty in this world and injects inspiration and aspiration into the soul. Oh and the Guaro Sours injected some inspiration and aspiration as well.